Know what you’re doing? Here are the key steps you’ll need to follow:

Step 1:

Read these instructions and watch the video so everything’s clear.

Step 2:

Open the box by turning the plastic box lock discs on either side and remove.

Step 3:

Lift the lid off and then carefully remove and unpack your bike.

Step 4:

Carefully remove all packaging from your bike.

Step 5:

Turn your forks the right way and install the stem and bar onto the fork steerer.

Step 6:

Smear a little grease to your bolt-through axle then install your front wheel, insert the bolt-through axle (or quick release) and tighten.

Step 7:

Fine-tune the stem and bar position; then tighten the headset pre-load bolt and finally tighten the stem clamp bolts. 

Step 8:

Add grease on the threads and install your pedals.

Step 9:

Ensure your seat posts is greased (or has carbon paste if in a carbon frame) and set your seat height.

Step 10:

Check your tyres pressures + fine tune your bike's set up to your liking. Lube the chain.

Step 11:

Final safety checks before you can saddle up and enjoy!

Our easy to follow, step-by-step walkthrough with detailed guidance to get you ready to ride:

STEP 1: READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS

More haste, less speed: don’t hurry on and open your box like it’s your birthday – take a breath, read through these instructions, watch the video, and make sure you’ve got everything clear and to hand before you get started.

STEP 2: Undo The Box’s Disc Locks 

At the bottom of your box on either side are some plastic discs. These lock into the cardboard box to keep everything snug and closed. Simply turn them anti-clockwise until they disengage and then pull them out and keep them somewhere safe with your empty bike box so it can be used again for storage, travel or for sending your bike back to us in in the rare instance you may you need to.

STEP 3: Lift The Lid

With the disc locks removed, you can lift the entire of the box’s top section upwards in one piece, sliding it upward and then off to reveal your bike. Put this top section carefully to one side.

STEP 4: Remove Packaging 

Lift your bike from the box and take off any protective packaging surrounding it. Be careful when snipping off zip-ties and tape not to scratch the frame.

Reuse and recycle everything you can – but remember to keep all the main boxes and protective covers for your bike with your empty bike box as they’ll come in handy should you ever need to re-pack it and send it back to us. 

Step 5: Unpack The Front Wheel 

Also remove your front wheel – taking off the plastic disc brake protector on one side of the hub, and the hub axle protector on the other size – and put it to the side for now. 

Step 6: Face Your Fork Forwards 

Next, make sure your fork is the right way around: if your bike has a suspension fork, in most cases the fork brace should be on the front of the fork facing forward and the disc brake calliper should on the rear of the fork facing backwards. If your bike has a rigid fork, the disc brake calliper should be facing backwards. If in doubt, ensure your brake calliper is on the rear of the fork.

Step 7: Install The Bar & Stem

Using an Allen key, gently undo the stem top cap bolt, remove the step and bolt and set to one side. Then take your stem and bar (already pre-assembled with all controls and cables/hoses) and slide the stem onto the fork’s steerer.

Depending on your preference, you may want to use the stem spacers to run the stem lower or higher on the steerer (just slide the spacers on top or below the stem, as you want, when installing).

Step 8: Line Up The Stem & Tighten

Making sure the stem is in-line with the where the front wheel will be, replace the stem cap and headset preload bolt, line the stem up roughly with the front of the bike and use an Allen key to tighten the headset pre-load bolt up to pre-load the headset and remove any play (but not so tight that the bars don’t turn smoothly and easily). Then tighten up each of the stem clamp bolts to the recommend torque setting (usually around 5Nm) to ensure the stem is secure on the fork’s steerer.

Step 9: Install The Front Wheel

Remove the disc brake pad spacer from the disc brake calliper (used to prevent the calliper pistons from being activated accidentally). With the pad spacer removed, make sure you don’t squeeze the front brake lever until you’ve installed the front wheel. 

Depending on what fork you have, the front wheel might be secured using a traditional 9mm quick release (QR) lever or a 15mm bolt-through axle and the steps you need to take will vary a little:

Step 10: Pedals Ready?

Before you fit your pedals, add a dab of grease to each of the pedal's threads to prevent them seizing over time. Pedals are left and right specific and it’s important that you fit the right pedal to the right-hand side of the bike (the chainset side – the ‘right’ hand side when you’re sat on the bike), and the left pedal to the left-hand side of the bike (the non-chainset side – the left hand side when you’re sat on the bike). Left hand pedals have an opposite thread (an anti-clockwise thread) and right-hand pedals have a clockwise thread – this is to stop the pedal unwinding as you ride. Many – but not all – pedals are marked ‘L’ or ‘R’ to make it easy to know which is which.

Step 11: Install Left Hand Pedal

With the correct pedal for the correct side of the bike, gently thread the pedal into the crank by hand (doing it this way to begin with minimises the risk of cross-threading if you’ve accidently picked up the wrong pedal). Once the pedal is hand tight, use an 8mm Allen key (or a 15mm pedal spanner, if your pedal doesn’t have an Allen key recess on its axle), to tighten it up snugly. Just remember to not overdo it.

Step 12: Install Right Hand Pedal

Repeat for the other pedal – remembering that the left-hand pedals has an opposite thread, so tightens anti-clockwise, and the right-hand pedal has a standard thread and tightens clockwise.

Step 13: Set Saddle Height

Depending on what bike you have, you may have a traditional fixed height seatpost, or a ‘dropper post’ – which allows you to adjust the seat height automatically up and down as you ride at the touch of a button – and the steps you need to take will vary a little for each: When fitting, ensure your seatpost has grease on the portion that is within the frame to prevent it seizing into your aluminium frame over time; use carbon paste when installing a seatpost into a carbon frame.

Step 14: Check Tyre Pressures

Pump up your tyres to your preferred pressures (remember to stay within the maximum pressure limit noted on each tyre’s sidewall (noted in both PSI and BAR)). For mountain biking, 30psi is a good starting point.

Step 15: Set Up Your Suspension

Set up your suspension according to your manufacturer's guidelines.   

Step 16: Safety Checks, Fine-Tuning & Test Ride

Before you go and ride your new bike, remember to check the brakes are working properly, everything’s set up as you like it (saddle height, the angle of your brake levers, shifter placement, suspension set-up, and more) and nothing is loose.

It’s always worth going around the bike with a torque wrench to make sure everything’s correctly tightened. But once you’re done, it’s time to lube the chain and then take it for a test ride to check everything’s working correctly as and to your liking.

Once everything’s done, it’s time to get out and ride. Enjoy!